Bathtub removal in Almaty — we'll carry out your old bathtub and take it for recycling

📖 Overview

Old bathtub removal: the breakdown — weight, dimensions, stairwell, disposal

A bathtub isn't the kind of load you carry out with the rest of the trash. It's heavier than it seems and bulkier than it looks in photos. The most common phone call starts the same way: "We have a cast-iron one, third floor, no elevator, how much will it cost?" Then we ask three questions — material, floor, and where the truck can pull up. From the answers, it's already clear what a simple bathtub removal will turn into.

Over the years, I've hauled out hundreds of bathtubs. And every time I see the same mistakes: people think it's quick because "it's just a bathtub." But it weighs anywhere from a hundred to two hundred kilos, won't fit through the doorway in one piece, and doesn't always go into a GAZelle the way you imagine. This isn't a scare tactic — it's data from real jobs.

In this article, I'll cover what price lists usually don't mention: how to calculate the volume, why cast iron and acrylic are two different stories, what to do with a bathtub that can't be carried out through the door, and where it's taken after loading. No tenge figures — just logic and experience. Prices are already on the page above.

What bathtubs are made of and why it changes the removal

Let me pull up last month: twelve bathtubs, eight of them cast iron. That's not a random sample — cast iron is still in most old Almaty apartments, and it sets the tone for the whole bathtub removal. Acrylic comes up less often, but it does come up. And each material is its own story about weight, dimensions, and how many people you'll need on the stairwell.

Cast iron bathtub: the main weight and the main challenge

A standard cast iron tub is a hundred and twenty kilos; an enameled one with thick walls can hit a hundred and eighty. And that's empty, no water. Two movers can lift it, but they carry it slowly: the center of gravity is off, and the sides are slippery. Often cast iron has to be carried upside down — it's easier to hold that way, but then the feet stick out. If you're ordering removal of an old bathtub from a panel building, allow twice as much time for the up and down as for the loading.

Another nuance is size. Cast iron doesn't bend and can't be cut on site. It either fits through the doorway or it doesn't. And if it doesn't — and in old buildings the doorway is sixty centimeters while the tub is seventy — we turn around and go get tools.

Acrylic and fiberglass: light, but there are nuances

An acrylic tub weighs twenty to forty kilos. Sounds great. But it's big, light, and fragile all at once — you can't lean it against a wall, can't drop it flat, can't pull it by the rim. You have to hold it by the frame, and on most models the frame is thin tubes that bend under load. Plus acrylic often has no feet and sits on a trough-like frame. Removing this type of bathtub is about care, not strength.

There's a second layer to the problem: reinforced fiberglass already weighs sixty to eighty kilos and remains fragile. Two movers can handle it, but it's better to have one walk ahead and call out the turns on the landing.

Steel enameled: the compromise option

Steel is thirty to fifty kilos. Thin enamel, a hollow sound when you tap it, often rust stains near the drain. Seems like the perfect candidate for a quick carry-out, but it's steel that most often causes trouble: it lets you down when lifting because the sides are thin and cut into your palms. We work in gloves, and that's not a formality.

The steel bathtub from Khrushchyovka buildings is usually one meter seventy long. It fits into the elevator diagonally if the shaft is standard. But a narrow freight elevator with handrails — no. You have to carry it down the stairs.

Composite and cast: rare, but they come up too

Cast marble, quartzil, artificial stone — heavy, from eighty to one hundred and fifty kilograms, but with even geometry and no legs. These tubs are often built into a niche and tiled along the rim. Before we talk about removal, we need to know: will you take off the tiles or will we? We don't remove tiles — that's a separate job, and it's not part of the removal.

• Cast iron — one hundred twenty to one hundred eighty kilograms, doesn't bend, doesn't cut, needs two or three people.
• Acrylic — twenty to forty kilograms, fragile, don't pull on the rim or lean it against a wall.
• Fiberglass with reinforcement — sixty to eighty kilograms, heavy and still fragile.
• Steel — thirty to fifty kilograms, thin rims cut your hands, we work in gloves.
• Cast stone — eighty to one hundred fifty kilograms, often set into tiles around the perimeter.
• Soviet cast-iron tubs — almost always one meter seventy, won't fit diagonally into a narrow freight elevator.

Sometimes people argue: what's the difference if you're removing it anyway? The difference is how many people and what kind of truck show up. For cast iron, you send a GAZelle with a reinforced floor and three loaders. For acrylic, two and a regular GAZelle are enough — but with a soft pad in the bed so the rim doesn't scratch against the side. These aren't trifles, they're the difference between one trip and two.

The most common surprise is a bathtub that was "just bought but didn't fit." Those get hauled away in the packaging, whole, and often it's composite. New material, decent weight, and then in the yard there's a tight turn and a barrier. That's when old bathtub removal turns into a separate logistics challenge: pull in, turn around, don't scratch someone else's car.

And more about age. An old tub isn't just cast iron, but also a chipped enamel layer, rust at the drain, sometimes leftover trap and pipes. We don't dismantle plumbing: pipes, trap, faucet are on you. Our part starts when the tub is free and can be handled.

If you're not sure what material you have, send a photo on WhatsApp. By the enamel color, rim shape, and thickness, it's almost always clear. Cast iron gives a dull sound, steel rings, acrylic echoes with emptiness. Those three seconds with a photo save half an hour on site.

How to calculate the volume of a bathtub before ordering a truck

I calculate by external dimensions. Not by 'eyeball,' not by the inner basin — but by how much space the box takes in the truck bed. A standard 170×70×40 cm is almost half a GAZelle in length. We put it on its side — takes less space, but then we need straps. That's all the math. Measure once with a tape measure, then just give the numbers to the dispatcher.

We measure by external dimensions, not by 'eyeball'

Tape measure and phone. Length, width, height — three numbers. Length is the most important. If the tub is 180 cm and the elevator is 160 — it won't fit sideways or diagonally. Check the doorway in the apartment, not just in the hallway. Sometimes it fits into the hallway but not into the vestibule. Measure in three places: doorway width, doorway height, and turning depth on the landing. I've seen apartments where the tub was taken out through a window — because the bathroom was remodeled and the door was narrowed to 60 cm.

We also calculate weight. Cast iron — from 100 to 160 kg. Acrylic — 20–40 kg, but bulky. Steel — 30–50 kg, but rattles and bends. For a GAZelle, weight isn't critical, but for carrying it out — yes. Two loaders carry a cast-iron one slowly and carefully. An acrylic one — faster, but you can't drop it, it'll crack. That's why removing an old tub isn't just about the truck, but also about the people.

How much space a tub takes in a GAZelle bed

A GAZelle is about 3 meters long, 1.8 wide, and 1.5 high at the sides. A 170 cm bathtub fits lengthwise — and there's still room for one and a half more just like it. But if you lay it flat, it takes up the entire width. We usually stand it on end to save space. Then there's still a walkway in the bed for other junk. If you ordered the truck just for the bathtub — flat is fine. If it's along with other stuff — better to stand it upright.

The GAZelle's door opening is 90 cm. A 70 cm wide bathtub fits through. A 170 cm length fits diagonally. But if the bathtub is 180 cm or more — you need to check. There are models 190 and 200 cm. Those don't fit into a GAZelle whole. They either get cut on site or hauled on a dumpster. A 32 m³ dumpster — that's a different story.

When one truck isn't enough: two trips instead of one

A bathtub plus a fridge plus a sofa — that's already two trips. Not because of weight, but because of volume. A GAZelle isn't elastic. If you haul the bathtub and the rest of the junk in one bed, you'll save, but not necessarily. Sometimes it's easier to order one trip for the bathtub and take the rest separately. I always say: if in doubt, count by cubes. A bathtub is about 0.5 cubes. A 1.5 t GAZelle — 12 m³. Figure out the rest yourself.

Second point: the building entrance. If the bathtub is carried out from the fifth floor with no elevator — that takes time. The movers get tired. After the third floor they carry slower. So two trips sometimes stretch out for the whole day. Better to plan for two trips right away if you have more than three large items.

Why underestimating volume costs you extra

The client says: "It's just one bathtub, what's there to count." We arrive — the bathtub is in a niche, walled in with tile, with a washing machine in front of it. It has to be disconnected first, then moved. Or the bathtub is bolted to the wall. Or it's cast iron, but on the fifth floor, and the freight elevator is out of order. So it turns out that underestimating volume isn't a discount, it's extra work on site.

Hence the rule: give the real dimensions and floor. If you say "about 160" and it's 180 — the truck might not fit it lengthwise. If you say "second floor" and it's the fifth — the movers will have to work longer. We don't penalize for clarification, but we recalculate based on facts. The price is fixed before the truck arrives. But only if the info is accurate.

Now step by step, how I myself calculate volume before ordering. This order saves time and nerves.

1. I take a tape measure and measure the bathtub's outer length, width, and height.
2. I check the doorway in the bathroom and in the hallway.
3. I look at the elevator width and the stair landing between floors.
4. I confirm the material: cast iron, acrylic, or steel — weight and speed depend on it.
5. I count the large items nearby to see if one trip will be enough.
6. I call or message on WhatsApp, give the three numbers and the floor.

After that the dispatcher will say which truck is coming. If the bathtub is longer than 180 cm — mention it separately. If it needs cutting — that too. We do the cutting ourselves, but it's a separate job.

The table makes it clear: length is the main parameter. Anything longer than 180 cm needs a separate solution. Weight matters for carrying it out, but not for the truck bed. Acrylic is light but bulky. Cast iron is heavy but compact. Combine these data points — and you won't go wrong choosing a truck. Old bathtub removal isn't just about the truck, it's about the right calculation. If you're unsure, message us on WhatsApp and we'll help you figure it out.

Carrying it out of the apartment: stairs, elevator, doorway

This is where the real work begins. While the bathtub sits in the apartment, it just seems bulky. But the moment it's pried off the floor and turned on its side, it becomes clear: removing a bathtub is not about the truck, it's about the stairwell. Flights of stairs, elevator cabins, turns between floors — every meter of the way tests the dimensions for durability.

We always look at the front door opening first. A standard cast-iron bathtub is 150–170 cm long, 70–75 cm wide, and about 40–45 cm deep. If the door is 80 cm, it fits through in width but not in length. You have to turn it. And there's nowhere to turn in a narrow hallway — that's when the acrobatics begin.

What an experienced mover figures out in two minutes

An experienced mover doesn't run around with a tape measure. He stands in the doorway, estimates the diagonal, and says: "It won't go through the door, we take it off its hinges or carry it sideways." That's two minutes. If someone lacks experience, they drag the bathtub at random, scratch the walls, and end up stuck at a turn. Removing an old bathtub is usually easier: you don't care about it anymore, you can tilt it more boldly. With a new one, you're more careful, but the principle is the same.

Here's what the mover assesses right away:

• The width of the front door and the height of the threshold — you have to lift the bathtub over the threshold, and that's plus two people.
• Whether there's an elevator and its load capacity — the rated figure often doesn't match the real one.
• The turning angles on the landing — that's where things most often get stuck.
• The number of steps to the first turn — that determines how many breathers you get.
• The material of the bathtub — cast iron doesn't bend, acrylic can bend a little, but you're afraid to break it.
• Whether there are handrails — you can hook a rope around them for safety.

When the bathtub doesn't fit through the doorway

A situation everyone underestimates. The door is 60–70 cm — and the bathtub doesn't fit lengthwise, even sideways. What do they do? Either take the door leaf off its hinges, or remove the door frames, or — as a last resort — cut the bathtub into pieces. Cast iron is cut with an angle grinder, acrylic is broken. But that's no longer removal, it's on-site disposal, and it costs more because it takes time and tools.

Another thing: the doorway might be fine, but the bathtub doesn't fit because of a turn right after the door. In Khrushchyovka buildings, the hallway is often 90 cm wide, and turning a one-and-a-half-meter bathtub there is impossible. You have to carry it out vertically — and that takes at least three people to keep from dropping it.

There was a case on Rozybakiyev Street: a cast-iron bathtub, fifth floor, freight elevator, but the cabin is short. The bathtub fits diagonally, but the elevator door won't close. We hauled it in, held the door with our hands, and rode with the doors open. We stopped at every floor to check we hadn't hit anything. We made it, but the nerves it took — like buying the bathtub all over again.

If the bathtub doesn't fit in the elevator, it's carried down the stairs. And that's a whole other story about floors and time.

Fifth floor without an elevator: how many people and how much time

A cast-iron bathtub weighs 100–120 kg. Plus water in the siphon, if it wasn't drained — a couple more liters. On the stairs, four people carry it: two in front, two in back. A breather on every floor. Fifth floor without an elevator — that's about twenty minutes just for the descent, if they don't get stuck at a turn. An acrylic bathtub is lighter — 30–50 kg, two people can carry it out, and faster.

Time also depends on how wide the stair flights are. In old buildings, there's a landing between floors where you can turn around. In some series, it's a narrow flight with no landing, and then the bathtub is passed along a chain, like a log. It's slow and dangerous for the walls.

Turn on the stairs: where things most often get stuck

The worst spot is the turn between floors, where the staircase changes direction. That's where the tub noses into the wall, and you have to lift it vertically to get it through. You can't hold cast iron vertically — it's too heavy. So you lay it on its side and drag it, which means scratches on the walls and on the tub itself. We usually put down cardboard or old blankets, but we don't always have time.

They also get stuck at the building entrance if there's a high step and a narrow vestibule. And coming out of the elevator if the car doesn't line up with the floor level. Every spot like that costs five extra minutes and one extra man.

That's why when you book a tub removal, we always ask: which floor, is there an elevator, how wide is the door. This isn't a formality. The answers determine how many movers show up and how long the carry-out takes.

What not to do with a bathtub before removal

Once we arrived at an address and the tub was already sitting in the yard — the owner decided to save money and hauled it out himself. On the way he smashed the tile in the stairwell and bent the railing. The repairs cost more than a turnkey tub removal would have. I'm not trying to scare you, it's just that this repeats month after month. So let's break down where sensible prep for removing an old tub ends and the headache begins.

DIY removal: what's fine and what's dangerous

Taking the tub off its legs, disconnecting the drain, unscrewing the faucet — that's doable. If the tub sits on bricks, you can carefully pry it up and lift it off. But the moment it comes to tearing it away from the wall, I'd stop. Cast iron fuses to tile for good, and one clumsy move means a crack in the wall or a chunk of tile flying off. We've seen it: a guy tried to save on removal, then had to call a tiler.

Acrylic you shouldn't touch at all. It's light, and you'll be tempted to carry it out alone. But acrylic bends, and if you drop it on the stairs, it just shatters. The shards are sharp as glass. And that whole mess is on you, because we're not responsible for anything you break before we arrive.

A whole different story is heavy whirlpool baths. They've got pumps, pipes, jets. Taking one out yourself is a sure way to end up with a puddle on the floor. We remove those ourselves — we've got the tools and the experience. Hauling away a fancy old bathtub is not the same as hauling away an old tub from a khrushchyovka.

Cutting cast iron with an angle grinder: why we're against it

Cutting cast iron with an angle grinder is a bad idea, and here's why. Cast iron is brittle, and cutting it throws chips. The disc can jam, and then the grinder rips out of your hands. Injuries from attempts like that aren't rare. On top of that, cast iron dust settles everywhere: on furniture, on curtains, in your lungs. You'll be cleaning it up for a week.

Another thing: after cutting, the tub loses its rigidity. The pieces get heavy and awkward, harder to load, and they scratch everything they touch. We don't cut cast iron — we carry it out whole. It's safer for us and for your renovation.

A steel tub can be cut, but only if it's not enameled. Enamel shatters when cut, and shards fly everywhere. If you really want to cut it, do it outside, in safety glasses, and preferably not alone. But honestly: it's easier to book a tub removal than to pick shards out of the whole yard afterward.

A tub in the stairwell: what it gets you

Leaving a tub in the stairwell means asking for trouble. First, neighbors can call the police or the fire department: blocking evacuation routes is a violation. Second, the tub blocks the way, and someone could trip. If a person gets hurt, you're the one on the hook, not us.

The management company won't be happy either. You can get fined for cluttering common areas. And that's not even counting the fact that your bathtub might just get stolen — yes, that happens too. Metal gets scrapped, and cast iron is valuable scrap. So you can't leave it in the stairwell for even an hour.

We take the bathtub out right away, with no intermediate storage. If you can't be home during loading, it's better to reschedule the order than leave the bathtub on the landing.

Cluttering neighboring landings and the stairwell

Sometimes people put the bathtub on the landing in front of the elevator and then leave. That ends badly: neighbors get angry, and the movers have to work in an awkward spot. We try to carry it out carefully, but if the bathtub is blocking the passage, it still has to be moved.

It's even worse when the bathtub is dragged outside and dumped by the entrance. Janitors aren't required to remove it. It can sit there for a week, rusting and ruining the look. Then we arrive and see that someone has already taken it apart. Don't do that.

Here's a list of things you definitely shouldn't do before the truck arrives:

• Taking the bathtub apart without experience or tools — you can damage the walls and floor.
• Cutting cast iron with an angle grinder: chips, injuries, dust all over the apartment.
• Leaving the bathtub in the stairwell — fine from the management company.
• Filling the bathtub with construction debris — we only remove the bathtub itself.
• Removing the faucet and drain if you're not sure you won't strip the threads.
• Trying to carry an acrylic bathtub alone — it bends and cracks.
• Blocking your neighbors' front door with the bathtub — that's a direct conflict.

Now to the point. If the bathtub is dismantled and lying on the floor — that's the best case for removal. We just pick it up and leave. If it's still connected to the drain, we'll disconnect it ourselves. Don't try to unscrew the drain if you're not sure the pipe won't break. Better to wait for us.

And one more thing: don't fill the bathtub with trash. Sometimes people stuff bottles, rags, old slippers into it. We remove the bathtub as a single item, not as a container. If there's something inside, the movers will shake it out on the spot anyway. Better to empty it beforehand.

Finally, don't paint the bathtub before removal. Sounds funny, but some people think it'll be easier to sell or scrap that way. It doesn't affect removal, and the paint can mess up everything around. Leave it as is.

The main rule: don't create problems out of nowhere. Removing old bathtubs is our job, and we do it every day. Your task is simply not to get in the way and not to risk your health. If you're unsure — call and ask. We'll tell you what you can do before we arrive and what's better left alone.

Where the bathtub is taken after loading

The truck has left — what happens next? I rarely get asked this, and that's a mistake. Because the answer determines what bathtub removal will cost and whether you'll have to pay extra for something you didn't expect. In short: the bathtub doesn't go to a landfill in the usual sense. It's taken to a place where metal and plastic are handled separately.

The scheme is simple, but it has forks. First — what the bathtub is made of. Second — what condition it's in. Third — whether there's room on site for bulky items. If you've ordered old bathtub removal, I usually say it straight: cast iron and acrylic go to different places. And that's not a carrier's whim, it's how material acceptance works in Almaty.

Cast iron and steel: why it pays to hand them over

A cast-iron bathtub is scrap. Heavy, but in demand. When we load it into the truck, I already know: it's going to a metal recycling point, not a landfill. That's why removing old cast-iron bathtubs sometimes costs less than it seems — the weight is offset by the value of the metal.

Steel enameled is also metal, just thinner. It's accepted more readily than cast iron because it's easier to cut. But there's a catch: if the bathtub is rusted through, they may not take it or take it for less. That's not our whim, it's the acceptance rules.

What matters for you as a customer: cast iron and steel can't be left at a solid waste site. They'll still be removed from there, but as a violation. So we take them straight to where they belong.

Acrylic and composite: what actually happens to them

An acrylic bathtub weighs several times less than a cast iron one. Seems like a joy. But from a recycling standpoint it's a headache: acrylic is plastic that not everyone takes. Composite (also called "cast") — same story, just with additives.

In practice, acrylic most often goes to a landfill. Not because we're so bad, but because in Almaty there aren't many places that accept acrylic for recycling. If you're handing over the bathtub yourself, be prepared to search long for the first site.

Sometimes acrylic is taken for crushing — it's then made into something like filler. But that's not our level, that's factories. We just deliver.

Why you can't just leave a bathtub by the container

This is the most common scenario I hear about. "We carried it out, put it by the trash, let them take it." You can't do that. First, it's bulky waste, not household. Second, you get fined for it — and not the janitor, but the apartment owner.

Second, if the bathtub is cast iron, it'll quickly be found by those who hand in metal. But that doesn't mean the problem is solved: you'll still be asked where it came from.

Third, it's just ugly. I've seen a bathtub lying by the entrance for a week many times. Agree, when you order bathtub removal, you expect a different result.

Sweeping the site after loading

After the bathtub is loaded, there's still trash: pieces of enamel, old putty, sometimes shards. We sweep it up. Not because it's in the contract, but because otherwise we'd leave a pigsty behind.

If the bathtub was carried through the hallway, there are traces there too. We clean them up if you warned us in advance. If you didn't — we might leave and then have to come back.

Here's what else you should know about the site where the bathtub is brought:

• Cast iron is accepted by weight, and the price per kilogram changes — one today, another tomorrow.
• Acrylic often isn't accepted at all, then it goes to a landfill as bulky waste.
• If the bathtub has cracks, it may not be taken for recycling — only for burial.
• Mixed cargo (bathtub plus other trash) goes to different sites, that's two addresses.
• The landfill charges by volume, not weight — acrylic is more cost-effective than cast iron here.
• Need documents confirming disposal — message us on WhatsApp before the pickup, and we'll say what we can arrange.
• If the bathtub was set in tile, it's cleaned first, otherwise acceptance may refuse.
• Unloading time at the site is from twenty minutes if there's a queue.

So it turns out that removing old bathtubs isn't just 'load it and forget it.' It's a chain where every step affects the final bill. And if you understand what happens after loading, it's easier to explain why the price is what it is and not something else.

Frequently asked questions about old bathtub removal and disposal

Every day I get a dozen of the same questions in messages. People are embarrassed to ask the obvious, and then they're surprised why the wrong truck showed up. I'll gather here what I hear every day and answer the way I'd answer my neighbor — no frills, no "check with the operator."

Let me say right away: for many questions, the honest answer is "it depends." On the floor, on the material, on where the truck can park. But there are things that never change, and you should know them before you pick up the phone.

Can a bathtub be removed together with other junk?

Yes, and almost everyone does it. A bathtub rarely goes alone — next to it there's usually an old toilet, a sink, leftover tiles, bags of construction debris after renovation. It makes sense: sending a truck twice costs more than loading everything to the brim once.

But there's a catch. A bathtub is heavy and takes up a lot of space, so it goes in first, and the small stuff gets stuffed into the gaps around it. If you throw in the bags first, you won't be able to put the bathtub on top — you'll have to rearrange everything. I tell everyone this: big stuff first, then the rest.

It's completely different with acrylic. It's light and fragile, you can't press it down with anything heavy — it'll crack on the way. Acrylic goes separately, and the bags go next to it, not on top.

What to do if the bathtub is left over from the previous owners?

It's a common situation, especially after buying a resale apartment. The previous tenants left the bathtub, a wardrobe, and half a disassembled furniture set. Formally it's your junk, because now it's your apartment — and removing the old bathtub is on you.

You don't need any documents for it. No receipt, no warranty, no proof that it was even bought legally. We load what's in the apartment and take it away. The only thing worth checking before the truck arrives is whether it's screwed to the wall or connected to the pipes.

If the bathtub is connected, it's disconnected first. Water is shut off, the siphon is removed, the mounts are unscrewed. We do this on site, but it's better to warn us in advance — it takes about twenty minutes, and it changes the truck's arrival time.

Do you need to be present during removal?

Not necessarily, but it's better. If you're home, you show what to take and confirm that the movers didn't grab anything extra. It's a normal human precaution, and it doesn't offend anyone.

If you're not there, it's also doable. We arrange with the concierge or a neighbor, leave the key, discuss everything by phone before arrival. But then be sure to send photos of the entrance and the stairwell in advance: without that, the movers might spend half an hour looking for the right entrance.

From experience, presence is needed in one case out of ten. In the rest, messages and photos are enough. The main thing is that someone is there to open the door.

How long does the whole procedure take?

From the call to removal usually takes a few hours if you call in the morning. The procedure itself on site takes from twenty minutes to an hour. A cast-iron bathtub from the fourth floor with no elevator is an hour of work for two movers, and that's normal.

The fastest is the first floor and a private house: pull up, carry out, drive away. Slower is a narrow staircase, a turn on the landing, a door that opens inward. Every such turn adds time.

Below is a table that puts it all in one place. It shows what makes up the time and what's worth clarifying when ordering.

The order of steps when ordering is simple, and it's worth keeping in mind so you don't forget anything.

1. You write on WhatsApp or call and say you need a bathtub removed.
2. You answer three questions: material, floor, where the truck will pull up.
3. You send photos of the bathtub and the stairwell landing if possible.
4. You agree on the delivery time and lock in the price before the truck leaves.
5. Before arrival, you clear the approach to the bathtub and remove small items from the path.
6. You meet the movers or arrange who will open the door.
7. After loading, you check that the area is swept and close the door.

Another common question is what if the bathtub won't fit through the door. Then it's cut on site, and that's a separate story with its own rules. Cutting is covered in detail above, in the section about removal from the apartment — I won't repeat it here.

And lastly. Don't hesitate to ask questions over the phone, even if they seem silly. "What if I don't know if mine is cast iron or steel?" — that's a normal question. We'll tell you how to tell by sound and weight. Better to clarify in advance than to figure it out on site when the truck is already at the entrance.

Bathtub removal is a procedure many put off for months because they don't know where to start. Start with one message. Then everything goes like clockwork: questions, photos, time, loading. And the old bathtub goes where it belongs, while you free up the corner for something new.

The short version: old bathtub removal with no surprises

If you don't have time to read the whole article, here's the summary. A cast-iron bathtub weighs from one hundred to two hundred kilograms, an acrylic one — twenty to forty. The difference is tenfold, and it determines everything: how many people go up to the floor, which truck parks at the entrance, what the removal of the old bathtub will cost.

What affects the final amount

Material — one. Floor and elevator availability — two. Distance from the apartment to the side of the truck — three. The oversized opening the bathtub will have to be dragged through — four. And the fifth thing people forget: can the plumbing fixture be cut on site or does it have to be carried out whole. Each point adds work, and work means people and time.

From experience, the most expensive part isn't the weight but the floor without an elevator. Two hundred kilograms to the fifth floor up a narrow staircase — that's two to three hours and three people. Acrylic to the same fifth floor we'll carry out with two people in twenty minutes.

What to prepare before the truck arrives

• Clear the bathtub of the curtain, mat and everything lying on the sides.
• Drain the water and wipe the basin — a full bathtub on the stairs behaves unpredictably.
• Take the door off its hinges if the opening is narrow: the door leaf comes off faster than the bathtub is cut.
• Move cars out of the yard: the GAZelle needs room to turn around right at the entrance.
• Warn the neighbors if we're working in the morning — the sound of removed plumbing fixtures can be heard throughout the riser.
• Check if any tools or rags from a previous renovation are left in the bathtub.

The list takes five minutes but saves an hour. Honestly, most often it's the entrance that lets people down — the truck is parked farther than promised to the movers, and the distance from the entrance to the side of the truck grows before your eyes.

Three things that will save time and money

First: tell us the material right when you book. Not "I don't remember, I think it's metal," but exactly. Cast iron and acrylic differ in weight by several times, and that affects both the price and the number of movers. Second: honestly describe the staircase. Is there an elevator or not, how many flights, will the bathtub turn on the landing between floors. Third: decide in advance whether the plumbing can be cut into pieces. A whole bathtub doesn't always fit through the doorway, while a cut one comes out faster and easier.

And one more thing: a narrow entrance and a turn on the stairs are not a small matter. I've seen a whole cast iron bathtub brought into an apartment through a fifth-floor window — that kind of bathtub removal costs the most.

When to call instead of putting it off

Don't put off your request until the day the renovation is in full swing. Dispatch around the city starts from 30 minutes, but if you call on Saturday evening, you'll be waiting until morning. Best is a day or two ahead: we have time to agree on a time, pick the right equipment and brief the loaders. The earlier the request, the less hassle and the better the chance of getting a convenient time slot.

Removing an old bathtub is a task best handled before it becomes an emergency. While the bathtub is still in the apartment, you're in control. Once it's out on the landing and you've gone to get the money, the neighbors are in control. Call ahead, and everything will go smoothly.